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Journal entry
Day 1-2
Up
with the birds in Zagreb and bleary eyed while
eating our first Croatian breakfast of great bread,
cheese, meat, jam and STRONG coffee and tea.
On
to Plitvice National Park, which is a UNESCO World
Heritage Site. You will expect me to tell you
this is a wonderful park, but that is an understatement.
This place is absolutely, gorgeous, with blue-green
lakes and many, many ribbon-like waterfalls. One
walks on trails made from cut saplings above and
around the lakes gazing at every size of waterfall,
from less than a foot to hundreds of feet high
and from six inches and many feet wide. we ate
a picnic lunch next to the lake, sampling yummy
local pastries filled with cherries, apples, poppyseeds,
cheese, onions or combinations of these.
We
sailed across the lake after lunch and hike among
the upper lakes to the "train" station
where we boarded a multisection bus that took
us back to the entrance by negotiation hair-pin
turns where the last car occupants could talk
to the first car occupant through the windows.
The flowers were lovely and we could actually
identify a few of them. The forest looked like
great bear habitat (but we saw no bears!) However,
we did see many small frogs that quacked like
ducks while blowing up little white membranes
behind their eyes. Then there was viper checking
out the frogs!!
Back
on the bus and on to the sample slow cooked lamb
and wonderful bread, especially of the Lika region
of Croatia of Seline at the base of the Velebit
mountain range, tomorrow's hike.
Check
back for our next adventure tomorrow!
-
Betsy Belshaw
Journal
entry Day 3
After
a Croatian breakfast, we assembled near Saline
for a loop hike up Mala Paklenica ( Small Hell)
and down Velka Paklenica ( Big Hell). As we greeted
the morning gardeners watering gardens we trekked
along a road to the reportedly small canyon. A
serious of aparant and choked check dams caught
our attention as we ascended in the heat over
limestone and travertine boulders. In the canyon
which resembled an aviary. Spring flowers were
an abandance. We boulder-hopped up mostly in the
dry creek bed occasionally using handy rope or
wired cable or Martin's leg as a foot step.
The
trail markers urged us steeply on to the col amid
the call of the cooko bird. To prove the we were
really here, Kathy snapped a group photo on about
twelve cameras at the trail sign. We headed across
the meadow with growes of unknown bushes, trees
and pines, skipping across stone fences. Then
it was over to a view point of the "large
hell" ( Velka Paklenica). Before we switched
back steeply down the canyon to a spot of water
where everyone cooled their hot feet. 15 minutes
later a spring allowed us to fill our empty water
bottles. Then it was down to the bus and repast
in Saline.
Martin
said it was about 5 miles loop but most of us
felt it was 50 miles. Several times on the trail,
we were 20 minutes from nowhere. All of us were
tired. But there were no super injuries. And the
same number of people ended this challenging trip
as started it.
After
the repast, we drove to Biograd na Moru and we
were introduced to the boats and their skippers.
The boats will be our home for the next 12 days.
-
Ralph Nafziger
Journal
entry Day 4; Sailing to Kornati
After
our first night sleep on the sail boats, we set
sail for Kornati archipelago national park. By
lunch time, we were ancored at the town of Sali
on the island of Dugi Otok. Our boats are the
Bepina and Oceanica with skippers Dario and Sebastian,
from Slovenia. Our lunch at Sali was while we
were tied up at the town's wharf.
An
afternoon hike across island Dugi Otok was planned.
Our hike departure was excelerated by the arrival
of the ferry at our wharf and the need of our
two boats to leave. Dorald was still on board
when the boats left. But she was able to hike
because of a special "touch and go"
deposition.
The
hike across Dugi Otok showed the typical sparse
vegetation of the Kornati island chain. Pines
and olives are about the only trees growing here.
Most of the 147 Kornati islands are uninhabited
because of the lack of water. As as Paklenica
National Park there were many stone walls along
the way.
At
the end of the hike the edge of the island is
a vertical wall of white limestone with deep blue
and green water at the base. The effect is much
like the white cliffs of Dover. Nearby is an inland
salt lake connected to the Adriatic Sea by the
narrow opening. Some of the group swam in the
lake at the end of the warm hike and then witnessed
the sunset from the top of "white cliffs
of Dugi Otok". Our sail boats were waiting
for us offshore at the end of the day. The Oceanica
served as a floating coctail lounge for much of
the afternoon. Ken's margaritas have no equal.
We remained ancored there for the evening.
-
Bob Young
Journal
entry Day 5;
A
chorus of Slovenian songs from a boat nearby put
us to sleep ( eventually) after they stopped singing.
We awoke at 6:45am to hear donkeys braying on
the nearby beach. Sebastian reported "donkey
sex on the beach". As we got up and dressed,
Sebastian eased our boat away from Mir Bay toward
the western side of Dugi Otok. We ate our breakfast
under the sheer cliffs that face the sea. They
drop some 500 feet from the top of the island
to the sea below. We shut down the engines and
enjoyed the quiet as we drifted during our breakfast.
When done, we motored on to Kornat Island. Sebastian
and Dario put us ashore near a tiny Catholic church
dating back to the 12th century. Behind it were
some older ruins going back to the 6th century.
Looking down on the church are the ruins of a
tower that is also from the 6th century. We went
into the church for a few moments and some of
us signed the guest book. Then we closed the door
and started our hike.
We
had not gone very far before we heard a sheep
bleating in distress. The poor thing had become
entangled in bramble sand could not break free.
John, apparently an old hand at working with sheep,
quickly stepped forward, cough the sheep (under
protest from the sheep) and pulled and cut the
brambles away. As soon as John released its hind
legs, the sheep took off at a dead run. It is
a good thing we came along that day !
We
headed inland up the slope of Metlina, a small
peak at 725 feet. The hillside was covered with
the beautiful blue blossoms of wild sage. Here-as
on islands we'we either been on or passed for
the last two days - we also saw many stone walls
fencing off small and large tracks of land. At
one time these rocky islands were rich with fruit
trees. Today though, they are very sparsely populated.
Too many fires have stripped the vegetation away.
At
the top of the peak, we stretched out in a long
line of hikers like aunts on a hill. We separated.
One group hiked down to the village of Vrulje,
where we picked up by dinghy and ferried out to
our boats for lunch. The other group walked down
to the village of Kravljacici where they were
serenaded by another group of Germans until we
picked them up. Group 2 - Mary, Becky and Phyllis
were having such a good time, we are not sure
they wanted to to be rescued.
We
were underway by 3pm, motoring toward Skradin
for dinner and the night. At 6:30pm we passed
by Sibenik, a fascinating city with old forts
to modern buildings. As we entered the channel,
we passed tunnels built into the rock where Yugoslav
patrol and torpedo boats were kept for protection.
The channel became a river. On both sides, we
passed large "mussel farms". They look
like large collections of oil drums. Underneath
are ropes and nets from which the mussels are
attached. Under a bridge crossing over the river,
we anxiously held our breath. We only had about
8 feet to spare from the top of the mast to the
bottom of the bridge. We passed pretty yellow
plants on the left side of the river and two people
fishing for octopus on the right bank.
We
tied up at Skradin, a very pretty little town
at 7:45pm. Everyone raced to the showers for dinner
at 8:30pm at Marco Polo. It is right next a church.
The steeple is lit up beautifully against a dark
blue sky
and we can already seethe moon.
-
Nancy Passavant
Journal
entry Day 6;
Today
we awoke to clear sunny skies. Some of us enjoyed
an early morning walk exploring Skradin, our moorage
village. The church bells ring on the hour and
they sounded loud and clear in the morning air.
After
enjoying a breakfast on the deck of our boats
we boarded an excursion boat at 9am for Krka National
Park, a 20 minute ride up stream by Krka river
to the foot of a spectacular series of waterfalls
which cascade over limestone cliffs for a total
drop of nearly 800 feet. This region of the Krka
river abounds in traces of ancient settlement
including Roman ruins which brought water to the
surrounding area. Some of us enjoyed warm water
of the pool below the falls and we swam and waded
in it.
After
viewing the falls and the interesting exhibits
we returned to our boats by either the excursion
boat or by hiking along the river trail. After
further exploration of the town and a hardy lunch
aboard our boats which included local sheep cheese
purchased at the falls we left this pleasant area
at 2pm and motored down stream towards the sea
to Sibenik a town of about 40 000 people. We stopped
at Sibenik and sightsee about two hours. Sibenik
has a remarkable cathedral and a network of streets
and squares that were laid out in 15th and 16th
centuries. The cathedral built entirely of stone
was begun in 1431 and finished in 1536. One of
the most unusual feature of the cathedral is the
freeze of 71 heads on the exterior walls of the
church. We also visited the large fort which overlooks
the city.
We
then returned to the boats and started our trip
to our night moorage at Primosten. Primosten is
a small village of medieval street and well kept
buildings. The anchor was dropped in the harbor
as the church bell
struck 7pm hour. We had a traditional supper at
a local restaurant under the stars and nearly
full moon. A great way to end the day.
-
David Carter
Journal
entry Day 7;
We
are still ancored in Primosten harbor and we have
had late reveille because of a late dinner last
night. But everyone ate heartily at breakfast.
Some of us went to ashore for a while for picture
taking and
wandering. Nancy and Francis came across a
packed burro with bangs that would beg for food
since it was tethered on a cobble stone street.
Any weed will do.
We
leave at 9:15am but the wind is slight and the
sails are slack. So we are motorized at 7,5knots
for the 5 hour leg. We are at open water and are
getting motion from the swells for the first time.
Maybe we can
develop sea legs.
Martin
is high on the mast on the Oceanica. Yesterday
Phyllis told him he looked like a pirate with
his bandana as a head cover. Now he REALLY looks
like one.
Dolphins!
Two pair in a perfect synchrony and several singles
cresting like aquatic ballerinas.
12:45pm
We are still under way and can see only two islands,
but the swells are gentle and the brandy is warm.
Yesterday, in the national park, we bought some
fig brandy from the table vendor. It is red, smooth
and warm and, according to skipper Dario, it is
a local specialty. We enjoy it but not too much
at one time.
Dario's
mother is Slovene and his father is Croatian.
He was born in eastern SLovenia, but fell in love
with the sea at a young age. He learned as a youngster,
and 3 years ago was teaching sailing in Corsica.
Side
note : Dario : "In Corsica the towns are
in the mountains because Arab marauders would
pillage the settlements and steal the females."
Sounds like the VIkings.
1:15pm
We are dropping anchor in a cove of the island
Vis where Tito planned to have his headquarters
in case of war with us or Soviets. We can see
four concrete bunkers for artillery pieces on
the hillside. We
have landed and as we walk to the bunkers, we
see that the hill is dotted with fox holes and
machine guns emplacements.
We
reach the bunkers and find 90mm canons with their
barrels blown up. We split into two groups and
enter adjoining bunkers. Fortunately each party
has flash light because all outside light quickly
disappears as we enter a labyrinth of tunnels.
We tread cautiously for fear of on covered man
holes like we stepped over as we came in. I feel
like Tom Sawyer in the cave not knowing what is
next. After penetrating 50-60feet, we hear voices
which turn out to be the other party. We have
entered the sleeping quarters which would hold
nearly 100 men stacked four deep in iron rucks.
So suspended from both walls we leave and find
reassuring light. We do not wonder because we
worry about land mines.
We
return to the beach where Jaroslav is cooking
fish on a grill over a fire built in a small alcove.
What a guy ! A few of us swim and snorkel in the
clear cool water while Jaroslav cooks. He brushes
the fish, which
look like 10 inch trout, with a wild rosemary
frond dipped in olive oil, pours a little beer
on them, and then sprinkles them with salt water
that he gets by simply reaching back as the waves
lap his feet. The fish
are delicious and Jaroslav receives a big hand
for his work.
At
4:30pm we set sail again under the moderate breeze
fed and refreshed. We dock in Komiza on the same
island just as the town clock strikes 6pm. We
are expecting rough weather and this is a safe
harbor.
Komiza
is a beautiful place, and we have the best dinner
yet. A feast of tuna pate, scallops still clinging
to their shells, octopus salad and scamp with
a supporting cast of noodles. This sumptuous repast
was
followed with out of this world crepes filled
with hazelnuts and whipped cream and smothered
with chocolate.
Dancing
to lively Croatian music then commenced while
the waitress twirled with her towel held high.
-
John Schoon
Journal
entry Day 8;
We
are having a delayed departure from Komiza on
the island of Vis because of a strong wind called
the bora - a wind from the northeast. So we are
having coffee and enjoying the view of the harbor
lined with
houses built 500 years ago ( more or less). The
tallest building is a 15th century Venetian tower
built to depend the harbor from pirates and other
raiders from North Africa. It now houses a fishing
museum staffed by a very pleasant sailor who speaks
several languages including English.
A
little distance away from the village there is
a church on a hill which looks like it started
as a fortress to which was added a tower and later,
a church. It is a beautiful spot surrounded by
vineyards and olive groves. Enormous work is involved
in creating these vineyards as the entire hill
is terraced : 3 foot high stone walls, 4 tiers
of vines, another wall and so on from the bottom
of the hill right up to the walls
of the church.
The
wind is lessening and I expect that we will soon
be underway. Meanwhile, Kathy went into town,
bought a flat of eggs and cooked up some delicious
scrambled eggs. That was a treat !
Everything
secured, engine running gang plank pulled aboard
- we are about to leave the harbor and sail to
the island of Bisevo to see the Blue Grotto.
It
was a short sail to Blue Grotto. We divided into
teams and entered the cave with the dinghy. As
we paddled in through the entrance it first got
darker and then an iridescent blue. The cave is
lit by light
filtering through the sea. A wonderful sight.
We sailed past another cave where seals once lived.
They are all gone, killed by fishermen because
the seals ate fish caught in the fishermen's nets.
We
then sailed back towards Vis, the crossing was
a bit tough, making some uncomfortable. Our speed
was nearly 9 knots. At times the wind gusted to
over 28 knots.
We
made a stop at the Green Cave, another grotto
in the limestone cliffs which we visited in our
dinghy. The cave has two openings to the sky in
the roof which let in light that makes beautiful
blue patches on the
water and provide illumination. Darting in and
out and around the cave were swallows perhaps
disturbed by our visit.
Our
lunch stop was at Rukavac where under skipper
Sebastian, several of us put together a delicious
salad for lunch : tomatoes, yellow peppers, olives,
tuna, onions, garlic, beans, oregano, parsley,
basil, cheese,
black pepper, salt, vinegar and oil. Stupendous!
After
a siesta, a rough sail was made to the town of
Vis where there is a laundry which we badly need.
The day ended with a huge seafood dinner: a scoop
of seafood salad, tuna marinated in a mustard
sauce with
capers, a fish soup followed by a bean and pasta
soup with a seafood broth ( the most outstanding
dish of the evening), shrimp, crawfish and then
the main course consisting of vegetables, salad
and two different
fish. How we ever managed to walk back to the
boat after that meal is amazing. Light
out and a well deserved sleep.
-
Francis Passavant
Journal
entry Day 9;
We
entered the very welcome horse shoe shaped harbor
of Vis after a rough afternoon on high seas. The
water laid down during the night and morning brought
warm sunshine. Part of our group had breakfast
on the boat and the rest walked to a small square
that contained a tiny bakery and a coffee shop
with a very clean WC. We had fun buying fresh
fruit at the open air market under the palm trees.
Vis dates back to Neolithic times and has been
occupied by Greeks, Romans and Slavic tribes.
We visited an Ancient Greek cemetery and a Roman
bath and an English fort. We had a wonderful lunch
of yellow fin tuna cooked over old grape wines.
We toasted each other with local grappa and wines.
We
climbed the long stone steps leading up to Tito's
caves where he directed the partizans during the
latter part of World War II. Vis island was off
limits to all foreigners until 1989. The next
stop was
the town of Hvar on Hvar island. On the way we
swang by submarine pens on Vis. We found a small
docking area about a 30 minute walk from the town
of Hvar. The boat crew prepared a delicious dinner
on the boats and we all slept very well.
•
Frank
Knox
Goodbye
Bepina! Goodbye Oceania! (our sailboats and home
for two weeks)
A
very stormy night proved we were right in deciding
to sail on into Dubrovnik a day early.
After
departing our boats we bussed to old Dubrovnik
which was settled in the 7 th century. It is a
place on the sea and surrounded with massive walls
and towers. Within the walls are cathedrals,
a monastery, churches, fountains and much commerce.
In 1667 a powerful earthquake leveled most of
the town, which was rebuilt. The 1991 war again
devastated many buildings. Most have been carefully
restored but work is still going on.
From
a hill above the town the Serbian army shelled
the buildings in a desperate attempt to destroy
them. Many, many, structures still show evidence
of the shelling. We walked through a dark doorway,
which led to a secluded area with a rocky climb
down to the sea. Perhaps pirates tried to enter
the walls from here. We are sure a dragon still
lives beneath the rocks. We could hear the hissing
from an opening every time a wave rushed under
the formation.
On
ship, our cabins were cozy. Our hotel rooms are
luxuriously large and we hardly know what to do
in all this space. We have real showers with lots
of hot water and even flush toilets!
Our
farewell dinner was another feast. We each expressed
our special feelings and appreciations of Martin,
Jerry and our skippers Davio and Sebastiano.
The final question was where are we going next
time?!
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