Slovenia: Vienna to Venice

Walking on the Sunny Side of the Alps

Photo by John Goebel

Lonely Planet Introduction:

In the eyes of many a Yugoslavian despot, Slovenia is the golden goose that got away. Rich in resources, naturally good looking and persistently peaceful, Slovenia has been doing just fine (flourishing, even) since breaking away from its Yugoslav owners in 1991. Travelers in search of an antidote to much of Europe’s crowds and high prices can, at least for the meantime, consider it their little secret.

Little Slovenia (Slovenija) straddles Eastern and Western Europe. Many of its cities and towns bear the imprint of the Habsburg Empire and the Venetian Republic, while up in the Julian Alps you’d almost think you were in Bavaria. The two million Slovenes were economically the most well-off among the peoples of what was once Yugoslavia, and the relative affluence of this country on the ‘sunny side of the Alps’ is immediately apparent. There has been no fighting, no war and no terrorism in Slovenia.

Day 1: South Styria and Ptuj

Early morning departure from Vienna. We drive via Graz (two hours) and enjoy lunch and an afternoon walk in vineyards and hills of Styria right on the border with Slovenia. We arrive in the beautiful village of Ptuj early evening and enjoy dinner along the riverbank.

Overnight in Ptuj

Day 2: Ptuj and Haloze Hills

In the morning we explore the historic castle and small village streets, local markets and wonderful squares of Ptuj. This village used to be one of the most important towns in Central Europe during the Middle Ages. The legendary amber road took its course throughout this region and signs are all around.

Between the Drava River and the Croatian border spreads the region of Haloze, justifiably divided according to its diverse landscape into Vinorodne (“winegrowing”) Haloze and the higher Gozdnate (“forested”) Haloze. Experts judge that Vinorodne Haloze has such favorable soil and climate conditions as can be claimed by only one fifth of the winegrowing regions in the world. Here, the sunny slopes are covered with vineyards and the shady slopes by deciduous and mixed forest. The region produces top quality white wines (Chardonnay, Laski Rizling) under its characteristic Halozan trademark. West of Haloze below the Pohorje mountain range are the hills of Dravinjske gorice with their many winegrowing sites which also produce top quality white wines (Ritoznojcan).

Overnight in Overnight Ptuj

Day 3& 4: Logarska Dolina Valley and Savinjske Alps

Deep in the heart of the Savinjske Alps, an image unfolds of an original paradise of nature coexisting with the truly special people who live in the most highly situated secluded farms in Slovenia. The green floor of the glacial valley of Logarska Dolina is surrounded by magnificent but accessible two-thousand-meter high mountains that hide burbling springs and roaring waterfalls, where birds of prey circle, and where the most magnificent and beautiful Slovene larches, yews, lindens, and elms grow.

The valley is divided into three parts: the lower tract is called Log, the central one Plest, whilst the upper part is known as Kot. Log and Plest are covered by meadows, whilst Kot is partially forested. Behind the green scenery of the forest one can hear the magnificent cascading of the Rinka Waterfall. Numerous walks and hikes are possible. The attraction of Logarska Dolina Valley to the nature lover lies in its abundant natural sights coupled with an almost pristine environment. A characteristic mark is also imparted by the farmsteads, which over the centuries have aided in contriving a cultural landscape fashioned by the hand of man. Because of all this Logarska Dolina was made a regional park, the future image of which rests on the successful development of quality tourism in symbiosis with nature.

Our walk takes us above the valley floor with views of the high peaks and remote farms dotting the countryside.

Overnight in Logarska Dolina, 2 nights

Day 5: Ljubljana and Kropa.

We depart the Logarska Dolina valley and visit two unique towns.  Our first stop is the capital city of Ljubljana. We enjoy a walk around the old city and opportunity for shopping and lunch before departing for the small historic village of Kropa, one of the oldest towns in Slovenia.  The local museum is fantastic and a visit to the ironworks follows. Kropa produced nails for Venice as well as railroads through Empire. Late afternoon we arrive in the beautiful region along Bohinj Lake.

Overnight by Bohinj Lake

Day 6: Bohinj Lake and Mt Vogel

Bohinj Lake is the largest natural and permanent lake in Slovenia. It is 4,100 meters long and 1,200 meters wide and the deepest part of the lake is 45 meters. The lake was made by a glacier; the main feeder of the lake is Savica. Along the northern part of the lake are several underwater springs - the most well known is the karst spring Govic. 

Our options in this region are many.  Based on the weather we plan to ascend with the cable car to Vogel Mt. (1534 m). From here we can walk the path to Mt. Rodica.  Here we are offered incredible clear views of both the full chain of Julian Alps Triglav mountains (the highest in Slovenia) and the Bohinj Valley.

OR

Mostnica Canyon and Waterfall

Today’s hike takes us into the Mostnica Canyon and Voje Valley to Mostnica Waterfall. We return to Bohinj Lake, with the opportunity to visit the Savica Waterfall.  A short walk along a well-marked path will take us to the 78 meter-high waterfall - a breathtaking source of river Sava. On return we visit a military graveyard from World War I. Tonight’s dinner is in local restaurant. 

Overnight by Bohinj Lake

Day 7:  Tolmin Gorge and Javorce Church

Today we depart Bohinji Lake and take the car - train to Most na Soci., or, travel to Soca valley via Predel or Vrsic Pass if the weather is fine We can walk the Tolmin Gorge and visit the small wooden church of Javorce at the end of the canyon. Here we find the soldiers from the village that gave up their lives in WWI protecting the region.  We enter the village of Kobarid in the late afternoon.

Overnight in Kobarid

Around Kobarid

Kobarid and the surrounding countryside are rich with the natural and historical sights. Beautiful mountain peaks, the Soca River, waterfalls and wild gorges will take your breath away! Kobarid was made famous by the one of the biggest alpine battles in WWI (Known as a Carporetto). About 600,000 men were mobilized on 24 October 1917 in this area. Many traces from the first world war are still noticeable today.

Day 8: Hike to Kozjak Waterfall and Dreznica

We visit an award winning local museum which deals in detail with horrible events which happened on Soca Front from 1915 to 1917. Hemingway’s novel “A Farewell to the Arms” talks about “Kobarid” which is “Caporetto”.  The Kobarid Museum was opened on 20 October, 1990. Presented in it are the events of World War I that took place on the Isonzo Front. Particularly exhaustive is the presentation of the 12th Isonzo Battle which is known as “the Battle by Kobarid”.  Briefly presented in the Museum is also the history of the Kobarid region, from the prehistoric era to the present. Owing to its originality and the narrative power of the collection, the Museum was awarded the highest Slovenian museum award, the Valvasor Prize, in 1992 and the next year, it was awarded the Council of Europe Museum Prize - as the best European Museum in 1993.

Today’s walk takes us to Kozjak Waterfall and walk in the area near the village of Dreznica. The walk takes us along a wonderful path and via a wooden footbridge to the stone bridge (built in 1895) across the Kozjak Brook. A left tributary of the Soca, the Kozjak Brook with its headwaters in several branches high under Mt. Krnicica (2,142 m), runs through several gorges and makes six waterfalls; its visitors can see only the lowest two.

On return from the Kozjak waterfalls, the walk leads to the left and upwards to a fortress of World War I. On the elevation stands a gun emplacement and an observation post. Dug in the slope not far from them is an arranged cavern which belongs to a series of shelters arrayed into a system of circular defense. Most of these caverns had been filled up, but three of them were later emptied. From the top of the observation post opens a beautiful view over the green pools of the Soca River.

Overnight in Kobarid

Day 9: Vipava Valley and Skocjan Caves

We transfer along the Soca River to Nova Gorica, through the Karst to Piran on the coast of Slovenia. Our walk takes us into one of the most famous of the wine regions of Slovenia, the Vipava Valley, which lies in the western part of Slovenia, on the transition from the Friuli lowlands (Furlanska nizina) to central Slovenia.

The fertile and wine-rich valley has always attracted people to come and settle here. Historians believe that the Valley was inhabited as early as before Christ, possibly even in the Paleolithic. It is certain, however, that the Valley enjoyed its heyday during the period of the Roman Empire, as numerous archaeological sites bear witness to that age. On this very land the famous and ferocious battle was fought between the armies of Roman Emperor Theodosius and the usurper Eugenius; the outcome of the battle affected the development of Europe as a whole. It was fought for two days, on September 5th and 6th, 394, and is believed to have directly triggered the break-up of the Roman Empire into two parts.

The wine-producing region of Vipava occupies some 2,000 hectares of vineyards. In terms of the climate and the quality of the terrain, as well as the selection of vine sorts, this is one of the best wine producing regions in Slovenia. The southern slopes of the hills get plenty of sunshine and are ideal for vine growing. The locals have been known for centuries in Slovenia and abroad as superb wine producers.

In the afternoon we visit the wonderful Skocjan Caves, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Evening arrival in Piran.

Dinner and overnight in Piran

Day 10: Mt. Slavnik

We enjoy a final walk with incredible views of the entire Alps range from Mt. Slavnik (1,028 m.) in Slovenia. Here we view the connection of the Adriatic Sea to the Alps.  Afternoon time is spent exploring the wonderful streets and seaside paths of Piran.

Piran is full of Italian charm with Venice only 1.5 hours away.  The lights from Venice can be seen on a clear night. With a wonderful grand Piazza and many waterfront cafes, this lazy fishing village has not changed much in the last 400 years. The cobblestone streets are narrow and filled with hanging laundry and colorful window boxes.

Overnight in Piran

Day 11: Boat trip along the Adriatic Coast OR Walk in Croatia

On our final day we board a boat and take the cruise along the coast of Slovenia to another old town named Izola. We visit the town and return on board where the “fish picnic” traditional lunch will be served. Don’t forget your swimming suit, as we will take a dip in the Adriatic.

For a more active final day we may choose to walk to Croatian Istria from the village of Motovun-Groznjan.  Farewell dinner and last overnight in Piran.

Day 12: Leave for Venice by Catamaran (or bus)

Slovenia to Venice: Depending on the Catamaran schedule (which is constantly changing), we hope for a morning transfer to Izola, on board the catamaran and leave for Venice.  We arrive into Venice by boat, which is an amazing way to see the city.  The backup plan is by bus transfer to Venice.

Post Trip Venice: Post Tour Venice includes two nights in a centrally located comfortable small hotel, ½ day guided walking tour, One dinner and two breakfasts, group transfer from boat to hotel.

Details

Venice Post Tour: (based on hotel availability).

Walking Tour: 12 days / 11 nights fully guided walking tour, all transportation within country, special events, daily walks; all meals included except two lunches and two dinners.

Pickup in Vienna, Austria (you will need to arrive the night before the tour), drop off Venice, Italy.